The Mock Cherry
Many of you will know that I had to take a few months off recently to have some surgery, subsequent to which I was plummeted into medical menopause.
Well, this has caused a number of physical changes that have surprised me. For example, I never had cellulite before, and now my butt looks like an old grapefruit. Mr. Weaver thinks the answer lies in more exercise, but I'm just more inclined to eat more chocolate.
One of the other changes has been to my bust. And significant changes at that as not one of my bras fit anymore! So time to address the issue and get back to the drawing board, this time with myself as the client.
Firstly, it must be said that fitting, and especially measuring, yourself is not to be recommended, but when you are your own client you just have to deal with it! I have worn a 38V wire for years but knew that this was too small now, so time to see what the difference was.
It turns out I've gone up 2 whole wire sizes. The image below shows the differences between my original 38V on the right and my new 42 wire on the right.
The 42L is too long so I have reduced it to a 42R which is better.
Next, time to check the cup size. I knew there had been some changes there but didn't feel they were as significant. Ultimately, I've only gone up 1 size in the cup but that is enough to affect fit and look as you can see here:
Note: The image above has 42L wires in both bras.
I then got out my tape measure and did my hardest to measure at the key places and sat down with a cup of tea to draft out my new pattern. Once complete, I cut into my lovely black cherry duoplex to make my mock up and matched it with black elastics as a contrast - because I was hopeful it would fit well enough to wear.
When I draft for myself, I like to start with a basic pattern with quite a high upper cup as I can draw on this later and play with different necklines so I knew this would be quite high in this bra. Other than that, it was just a case of sewing it up and trying it on!
So here's the finished mock up. Not too shabby for a self measured bra - the bottom cup fits well overall with a few adjustments needed to make it just right.
Firstly, I want to take in about 1/4" from the cross cup, just to eliminate that wrinkling at the upper. You can see how just pinching that out improves the fit.
Secondly, I am definitely dropping that neckline - right now it's much too high as expected.
Here, you can see how by just dropping it 3/8" really opens up the chest area without exposing masses of cleavage and gives the bra a more proportionate look on the body.
You can also see that the neckline along that upper cup fits really nicely.
I will also lower the strap height so that I don't feel like my boobs start right under my chin! Additionally, I am a girl who loves a good power bar to get better forward projection - I don't like that really round look on myself - so power bars will be a big feature of most of the bras I make for myself going forward.
Around the back there were no changes to be made. I had thought I might need to extend the back band just a little, just for comfort, but once washed the fabrics all relaxed and it's now super comfy.
So, job done and it's very wearable - plus I really like the black elastic against that glorious black cherry. As one of my class ladies said, 'Black Cherry is the New Black'. With just these few alterations to do I have a great base to work on my next bra which will be using this lovely lace!
I hope you've found this glimpse into the fit, draft and alteration of a pattern interesting. Check back soon to see how the navy and pink floral lace turned out :)